Porchetta

Method

1. The day before: finely chop the rosemary and parsley and put them in a medium bowl. Grate in the garlic and zest in the lemon, then add the fennel pollen, chilli flakes, salt and MSG. Mix well and keep in the fridge until needed.
2. Roll the pork up to see where the skin overlaps, and trim the skin back to that point so no skin is rolled up on the inside. The two sides should meet with no overhang.
3. Remove the loin by following the seam, running a boning knife under it where it meets the fat and keeping the skin and belly intact. Trim the thick fat layer slightly, but not all of it, as it keeps the loin moist.
4. Butterfly the loin: cut down the middle, stopping about 7 cm from the bottom, then cut sideways on both sides until it opens flat. Rub in about a quarter of the marinade and set aside.
5. Score the belly skin diagonally, about 2 cm apart, in the opposite direction to how the string will be tied. A razor blade is ideal, but a sharp knife works too. Cut deep score lines into the flesh side so the marinade can penetrate.
6. Rub the rest of the marinade thoroughly into the flesh side of the belly.
7. Lay the loin back on the belly and roll the belly over it. Tie the porchetta as tightly as possible, working from the centre outwards. Put it on a rack over an oven tray and leave it uncovered in the fridge for 24–48 hours. Don't cover it: the drier the skin, the better it crackles, and 48 hours beats 24.
8. On the day: preheat the oven to 225°C (445°F / gas 7). Roast for 40–45 minutes, turning the porchetta 90–180 degrees for the last 20–30 minutes so the underside crackles evenly.
9. Turn the oven down to 140°C (285°F / gas 1) and roast until the internal temperature reaches 75°C (170°F), about 3 hours. Start checking at about 1½ hours.
10. Rest for 20–30 minutes before carving. If it's ready early, rest it longer, then briefly return it to the oven to bring the outside back up to temperature.